Malagousia is an ancient, white-skinned Greek grape that was saved from extinction by Vangelis Gerovassiliou, who brought it back from obscurity in the 1970s. The grape produces aromatic dry wines, which are usually of excellent quality.
It is also used to make dense and perfumed dessert styles. On the nose, the wines display intense aromas often reminiscent of peaches, pears, and tropical fruit, usually with citrusy, herbal, and subtle floral notes. On the palate, they are full-bodied, rich, and round, and the best examples manage to remain lively and fresh.
This Greek white grape variety is indigenous to the island of Santorini, but it can also be found on other Aegean island such as Paros. The soil of the island, which is rich in volcanic ash, seems to enable the grapes to retain their acidity regardless of how long they ripen, which gives these wines a long aging potential.
Its popularity has grown recently due to its unusual character, which does not reflect the hot climate it comes from. Assyrtiko wines are dry, full-bodied white wines with citrus aromas and a pleasant minerality. This wine can also be blended with two other local varieties, Aidani and Athiri, during the production of the sweet wine Vinsanto.
Roditis is a pink-skinned variety from Greece that is cultivated throughout the mainland. It is the second most planted grape in Greece, used both in varietals and blends. The grape was mostly used for bland, inexpensive bulk wines, but the recent shift to quality has slightly improved its reputation.
Roditis is terroir-driven, and the grape is multi-clonal (at least three confirmed clones), creating wines with somewhat different characters and features. The best expressions come from old vines and high altitudes, resulting in subtly aromatic wines with a medium body and high acidity, such as those from Aigialia Slopes in the Peloponnese.
Fetească Regală is a native Romanian white grape variety that first appeared in the 1920s in Transylvania. For a long time, it was believed that Regală was a hybrid between Koverszolo (Grasa de Cotnari) and Fetească Alba, but recent findings show no specific parent-offspring relationship.
During the communist regime, the grape was especially favored because it was suitable for mass production. Nowadays, Regală is used for dry and sparkling wines, and it is the most planted grape in Romania. The best expressions of dry Regală are fresh and aromatic with typical aromas of white fruit, roses, and white flowers.
Moschofilero is a Greek grape that hails from Peloponnese. It is an aromatic and late-ripening variety that delivers high yields, but it is sometimes sensitive and finicky to grow. Despite its common presence, Moschofilero was only popularized in the 1970s and ’80s, primarily by the producers from PDO Mantinia, the most important wine region for Moschofilero.
Varietal Moschofilero wines can be incredibly versatile. They will usually have bright and crisp acidity, which highlights their clean and fresh character. The wines from lower altitudes will usually have more freshness, and those from higher vineyards tend to have a more prominent floral character.
Fetească Alba (White Maiden) is a Romanian white grape variety that is closely related to Fetească Regală variety and the red-skinned Fetească Neagră. It is cultivated in various Romanian regions as well as Moldova and Hungary—though it was often mistaken with Hungarian Leanyka variety.
Fetească Alba is mostly used in dry varietal wines, but some blends, sparkling and sweet styles may be available on the market. Dry varietal wines are typically fragrant with medium acidity and citrus and floral aromas, which may be accompanied by nuances of stone fruit such as peach or apricots.
Vidiano is a native white grape from Crete that is mostly cultivated around Rethymnon. The grape is not widely known, but it has seen an upsurge in popularity in the last decade. It is usually used in varietal examples that are typically high in alcohol and acidity.
The wines are usually straw-colored and tend to turn darker with age. They have a rich and creamy texture, while the aroma is reminiscent of melon, apricot, and quince, sometimes with subtle floral notes. They will often have hints of spice and minerality.
Debina is a white grape considered native to Epirus, Greece. The grape is best known for its high acidity. It is mostly used in the production of dry white wines and sparkling styles in Zítsa region. Although it does not classify as a popular Greek variety, Debina is an esteemed grape that can produce excellent quality varietals.
Dry and sparkling Debina wines are refreshing, crisp, and bright, with citrus and green apple notes, along with some toasty notes found in fizzy styles. These wines are best enjoyed young. Pair them with salads, vegetable dishes, fish, or shellfish.
Kidonitsa is a rare and ancient Greek grape that was once nearly extinct. It was saved by several producers from the Peloponnese region who realized that the grape has an excellent potential to produce aromatic white wines with a unique character.
The wines are still rare, and most of them come from Laconia. Dry white wines made from Kidonitsa usually have an approachable character. They are bright yellow and aromatic with crisp acidity and a round, medium body. Most examples have a quince-like note—unsurprisingly, the name of the grape derives from the Greek name for quince (kydoni)—along with some floral and citrus notes.
Vilana is a white grape variety native to Crete that produces fresh and light white wines. It is a very productive and resistant grape that was mainly used as a workhorse variety that often created unimpressive bland wines. However, it was proven that with a careful approach, good terroir, and controlled yields, Vilana can make exciting and aromatic wines.
Vilana-based wines will usually have a refreshing character with citrus and green apple aroma and some floral nuances.
The wines will sometimes have subtle spice-like notes. The grape is used in varietals (Peza appellation) and blends, and though it is rarely aged, some producers experiment with oak aging, creating more complex Vilana examples. The approachable and easy-drinking Vilana wines would pair well with lighter local dishes.
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