"I don’t think there’s anything more wondrous than what Michael White is doing at Marea. The two dishes that fall into category are his uni and lardo crostini and his fusilli with bone marrow and octopus."
on Crostini
"The desserts are rich, pleasant, American style, the vanilla ice cream affogato takes you back to Italy."
on Affogato
"Order the affogato for maximum wow: a float of zabaglione gelato with small pours of espresso and amaro on top. This is iced coffee for the smart set, fantastic to eat and drink."
on Affogato
"Everything about that evening made me feel I was in a three-star restaurant racing for four. From proper lighting and outsize sprays of orchids, to lardo-wrapped sea urchin. Wildly expensive, of course, but worth it."
on Crostini
"It offers exactly the sensation as kissing an extremely attractive person for the first time — a bolt of surprise and pleasure combined. The salt and fat give way to primal sweetness and combine in deeply agreeable ways. The feeling lingers on the tongue and vibrates through the body."
on Crostini
"If you've eaten great crudo before and want something truly original try the ricci—warm sea urchin smeared on crostini and topped in a velvety blanket of melted lardo. The dish is ethereal—the lardo, liquefied just to the point of translucence, provides the perfect compliment to the creamy uni, and the crunchy bread adds a pleasing textural contrast."
on Crostini
"For dessert, you can never go wrong with Italian donuts, especially these, which arrived almost too hot to handle, and flavored with banana. Dip them with abandon into chocolate-hazelnut and lemon cream sauces for a real treat."
on Bomboloni
"You may opt for a plate of cheeses, but you should not miss desserts like panna cotta with pinenuts, black mission figs, rosemary and brioche."
on Panna cotta