"Morimoto, a long, narrow, fluorescent-lit room built around a busy kitchen, opened in the 1970s. The place is a master of the form. I even ordered the chicken gombu, otherwise known in North America as chicken tails. One by one, the skewers arrived and bowled me over."
"It was an excellent meal, highlighted by some noteworthy menu selections, among them the crispy Bonjiri (chicken butt)."