Ark of Taste - Indigenous

Merquén or merkén is a Chilean spice made with a long, pointed chili pepper called aji, caciocavra, cacho de cabra, or goat’s horn pepper as the key ingredient. The peppers are grown throughout the Araucanía region and are picked in February, when they turn from green to red. They are then dried in the sun until they develop a violet color. The dried peppers are smoked, then hung from ceilings over a wood fire. After the second drying in the sun, these peppers are ground in a stone mortar or in an automatic grinder. The powder is combined with smoked coriander seeds and sea salt, and the spice blend should contain at least 70% of the powder and no more than 20% salt. The spice blend accentuates the rich and earthy flavor of the peppers, and it is generally more smoky and flavorful than spicy and hot. Coming from the gastronomy of the Mapuche indigenous people, merkén is used as a spice rub for meat, sprinkled on pizza, mixed into pebre salsa, or used in mani merkén, a snack of roasted peanuts seasoned with merkén. For a traditional Chilean side dish, it is recommended to try puré picante – mashed potatoes seasoned with this unique spice blend. Nowadays, the use of merkén is slowly declining because it is often considered a symbol of poverty in the country. However, the spice has turned up as a twist on the traditional Chilean aperitif known as pisco sour, where merkén is lightly sprinkled on top of the cocktail glass.

The Mexican region of Chinantla is the only place in the world where wild vanilla grows. Known locally as colibrí, these orchid vines grow in the heart of the forest, using moderate-size trees like citrus, cocoa, and calabash (jícara) trees for support. Once they have been collected, vanilla beans are traditionally sealed in bags, then left in the sun for 5 hours a day over 15 days. The process results in tender, fragrant berries with an appetizing coffee color. In the past, the fruit wasn’t used for cooking because it was offered to the Aztec emperor Montezuma as a tribute, while women combined it with mamey seed oil in order to make their hair shiny.

In the 19th century, Ecuador produced more than 30% of the world’s cacao, and almost all of the trees were of the Nacional variety, but in the 1920s, two serious diseases infected the trees, almost destroying the production in the process, leading to the substitution of many Nacional trees with other disease-resistant hybrids. Nacional cacao is delicate and exceptionally flavorful, similar to the legendary Criollo cacao. Nowadays, it is mainly produced in the remote area of Napo Province, and this isolation is the reason why the last stands of Nacional cacao are still protected in the Quichua tribe villages, located deep in the heart of the Amazonian forest.

Produced by local women from the indigenous Wilaya community in southern Algeria, particularly in the regions of Ghardaia and Naâma, kemariya is a variety of smooth white cheese that is traditionally made with goat’s milk by following ancient traditional methods that involve heating a mixture of raw milk and salt until it starts coagulating, then stirring and draining the combination for up to 24 hours before the final product assumes its round and flattened shape. Also referred to as takkmerit by local Berbers, the cheese can alternatively be made with cow’s milk or camel’s milk, and it is available for consumption year-round. Although it can be enjoyed daily, kemariya cheese is customarily eaten on festive occasions and religious holidays such as Ramadan or Mawlid, and it is commonly paired with bread or tea on the side. High demand for this particular cheese variety in Algeria has led to increased production of lower-quality, semi-industrial and industrial versions of the cheese that threaten the existence of the authentic and traditional kemariya cheese.

Bouhezza is a type of ripened cheese that has traditionally been prepared by the Chaouia community of the Aurès Mountains in Algeria. Produced between March and June, this cheese is made from raw goat’s or sheep’s milk (today also with cow’s milk), with the addition of lben (fermented milk), salt, and additional raw milk. Although traditional cheese-making calls for the use of a chekoua (a specially designed goatskin or sheepskin bag), cloth fabric is nowadays more commonly used in the production of this cheese. Ripening usually takes from several weeks up to 2 or 3 months, and red chili powder is sometimes added for spiciness. The cheese is characterized by a soft, smooth, and spreadable texture with a medium consistency, while the flavors are slightly salty, spicy, and acidic, with an intense acidic lactic odor and aroma. This traditional cheese is commonly enjoyed with bread and can be consumed fresh, crushed, or dehydrated. It is often incorporated in various traditional dishes including aiche, m’karfta, and couscous. Once an important source of income and an integral part of the local culture, traditional bouhezza cheese produced using a chekoua is currently at risk of being lost due to the increased industrial production of the cheese.

Originating from the Sierra Norte de Puebla mountain chain in Mexico, this honey is a product of pisilnekmej bees, endemic to the region. It is collected from April to June, exclusively on sunny days during the period of the full moon. Two terracotta pots are separated with a machete, the combs are selected, and the honey is then manually extracted, while other products are further separated into pollen, wax, and propolis. The obtained honey ferments for a few months and is then used as food or medicine, since it acts as a natural antibiotic for the respiratory tract. The honey has a spicy, piquant aroma, while its flavor is sharp, complex, and citrusy. It is produced by the indigenous Náhuat beekeepers who, besides honey, earn their living by cultivating coffee, cinnamon, macadamia nuts, vanilla, and pepper.

Rediscovered in the last 30 years in the Mexican Tehuacán valley in the state of Puebla, Tehuacán amaranth is a resistant crop beloved for its nutritional value and adaptability to even the aridest regions. Also known as Amaranthus hypochondriacus, the plant can reach up to 2 meters in height. It is characterized by large green leaves and visually stunning flowers – deep red with green and pink nuances. Amaranth is rich in protein – particularly lysine, an amino acid involved in the growth process. The plant is very versatile – it can be eaten as a vegetable, used in soups and salads, or used as a spice when dried. Interestingly, the leaves are richer in iron than spinach. When toasted, amaranth seeds are often used to make traditional sweets, but amaranth can also be used to make flour for making tortillas, biscuits, and cakes. It doesn’t contain gluten, so it is also an important ingredient for people with celiac disease who make bread, pasta, and biscuits from amaranth flour.

Native to tropical America, from where it has spread to other tropical parts of the world, guava (Psidium guajava) is a fruit-bearing tree or bush that has long been harvested by the local indigenous people living in Argentina, especially in the northwestern province of Misiones. The fruit is distinguished by a sweet and somewhat granular flesh which represents a great source of essential nutrients such as vitamin C, iron, calcium, and phosphorus. It can be consumed in a variety of ways - fresh, in salads or as a dessert, canned, or in the form of jellies, jams, or juices. Although it used to be highly appreciated by local communities in the past, the consumption of guava has declined in recent years due to the availability of imported fruit in local stores. Guava fruit is, nevertheless, generally sought-after by local hotels and restaurants. Efforts are being made to preserve the traditional knowledge about native fruits such as guava by promoting their use and helping with the fruit production and the preparation of traditional specialties which contain guava as an ingredient.

Growing in the forests in the southeastern part of Brazil, Juçara tree is characterized by a straight and thin trunk which grows up to 15 meters in height. It requires little sunlight and no fertilizers at all. Before the palm heart is extracted, the tree must be at least 8 to 10 years old. It is used in its entirety – the leaves for chairs and beds, the wood for building houses, the berries for an acidic juice, and the palm heart for boiling, roasting, and frying. The palm heart can also be consumed in its own with honey, because the Guaraní people don’t use salt and sugar. The heart is removed by cutting the top of the trunk and stripping the bark with a machete. It is typically sold while still fresh, on the spot, or to nearby restaurants for further processing. Due to the fact that it takes anywhere from 8 to 10 years to consume Juçara palm heart, it is considered rare and precious, even more so because vast groves of these palms have disappeared due to over-harvesting.

Raki thanit is a traditional alcoholic beverage made by people from the Shala community in the Shala region in Northern Albania. This local spirit is made by fermenting the rather acidic, dark ruby-red fruits of the wild Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas), called thana in the local language, that are typically gathered from midsummer to late summer. After fermenting in wooden barrels for one or two months, the fruits are distilled to make the spirit. The production of homemade raki, including raki thanit, has been an integral part of the tradition and culture of the local community - and Albania in general. Unlike other varieties of Albanian raki, this variety is not intended for everyday consumption because it's enjoyed only on special occasions.

Native to South America, aguaymanto (Physalis peruviana), called topotopo in the indigenous Quechua language, is a perennial herb that produces edible, round, yellowish-orange berries which have a soft, succulent flesh characterized by a pleasant, tangy sweetness. Mainly distributed in Peru, Chile, Ecuador, Colombia and the Argentine provinces of Salta and Jujuy, the plant is typically gathered from the wild, and it is closely related to tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes. The indigenous populations, including the Incas, have long consumed the fruits of the aguaymanto plant. The fruits are an excellent source of iron, potassium, zinc, phosphorus, and vitamins A and C. They can be eaten on their own or enjoyed with syrup, combined with other desserts and sweet fruits. The fruits can also be dehydrated or processed into jams, fruit preserves, and beverages. The use and traditional knowledge of local wild plants such as aguaymanto are at risk of being lost as the consumption of these plants is increasingly neglected by younger generations because of cultural changes and migration to cities.

A passion fruit (Passiflora edulis) variety that grows wild in the province of Misiones in the Parana Forest of northeastern Argentina, mburucuya is distinguished by bright green leaves, white flowers, and shallow roots. This perennial climbing plant bears edible yellow or purple berries which are oval or spherical and contain a mucilaginous, juicy pulp with numerous seeds. The flowering period depends on the weather and latitude, and it typically takes place in spring or fall, although it can sometimes last even for up to 9 months in a row. The fruit of this plant can be consumed fresh or it can be processed into a golden-yellow-colored fruit juice with a distinctive aroma and flavor. Although this fruit and its juice have long been a part of the local people’s diet, during recent years, there’s been a marked decrease in mburucuya’s traditional consumption. Due to gradual loss of interest in this native fruit, numerous local organizations and agencies have been making efforts to promote mburucuya and preserve the knowledge of its traditional uses. Products featuring this fruit are sold in shops and at local fairs in the area.