"Just smoky pea soup, oladyi (small, lacy blini) fried in rich Vologda butter, and cleanly rendered herring under a fur coat (a.k.a. beet salad), that sine qua non of a proletarian repast, served on grayish stolovaya-issue dishware."
"This is a great place to try ‘herring in a fur coat’ (herring, beets, carrots and potatoes)."