At the mention of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, most of us think of cocoa sponges, lavish cream, cherries, and chocolate shavings, all artfully arranged and aromatized with kirschwasser, a type of clear, colorless cherry brandy from the Schwarzwald region.
Credits: Shutterstock
It's a cake ingrained in almost everyone's minds, from the bustling streets of China and the USA to the markets of North Africa and New Zealand. The Black Forest cake (anglicized name) has fervent fans.
Credits: Shutterstock
Yet, despite its widespread appeal, you would be hard-pressed to find one establishment offering the traditional, original version.
Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte Timeline
While many culinary experts have tried to lay their claim for the cake's inception, two names emerge prominently: Josef Keller and Erwin Hildebrand, both hailing from Baden-Württemberg.
One of the most widely-circulated origin stories is that Josef Keller, a confectioner at Café Agner in Bad Godesberg (near Bonn), created the Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte in 1915. Erwin Hildebrand, on the other hand, who was the owner of Café Walz in Tübingen, Germany, is said to have invented the cake in 1930 and made it popular in the region. However, the true inventor will likely never be decidedly determined.
Café Agner - Credits: Public domain
The cake appeared in German cookbooks in the 1930s, and by the mid-20th century, the cake was popular in German cafes. In the 1950s and 1960s, it started to be known internationally and started to gain a name for itself, especially in Great Britain. The 1970s brought about codification. The German law set down a rule that a cake must contain kirschwasser to be officially labeled a Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte.
The authentic Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte
According to the Schwarzwald Tourist Board, the cake consists of a shortcrust pastry base with two layers of chocolate sponge and a gelatin-stiffened whipped cream flavored with kirsch. The pastry base is spread with redcurrant or raspberry base before assembly.
The detailed composition of the cake
Credits: TasteAtlas
• Shortcrust Pastry Base: A golden bed, crispy and with a hint of sweetness, makes the base of our masterpiece. Enhanced by the aroma of vanilla and a touch of lemon, it holds the first secret to the cake's allure.
• Jam: Both redcurrant and raspberry jam will work.
• Chocolate Sponge: Two layers of moist, fluffy chocolate sponge offer a rich contrast, both in taste and texture, to the crumbly pastry below and the kirsch-flavored cream.
• Cream and Cherries: The soul of this cake lies in its cream. The whipped cream, flavored with original Black Forest kirschwasser and set with gelatin, binds the layers together. Interspersed with sour, kirsch-soaked, cherries, every bite offers a blend of textures and flavors.
• Decoration: The cake is complete only with its iconic decoration. The whipped cream artfully swirled, chocolate shavings delicately sprinkled, and cherries carefully placed on mounds of cream – it's a visual treat, beckoning you to dive in.
Things to remember when preparing the cake
• The success of the pastry base lies in achieving a breadcrumb-like texture before adding the remaining ingredients. Cold butter is key here. Make sure the dough for the base is adequately chilled and then allowed to come back to room temperature. This ensures it's easy to work with and bakes uniformly.
• The sponge requires a gentle hand; folding in the ingredients ensures it remains airy.
• Gelatin should be completely dissolved before introducing it to the whipped cream, guaranteeing a smooth texture.
• When preparing the chocolate sponge, careful measurement of ingredients is essential. Too much cocoa can dry out the sponge.
• The kirschwasser is integral to the Black Forest Cake. Sprinkling it liberally ensures that every bite encapsulates the essence of the Schwarzwald region.
For a detailed recipe with a list of ingredients and measures, click here.
Variations Take the Stage
Even though the cake has many fans worldwide, making one assume everyone favors the original version, variations abound. Some completely leave out the signature kirsch, others replace cream with buttercream, but its appearance remains unmistakably recognizable.
Many contemporary chefs have tried their hand at recreating the cake, most notably Pierre Hermé and Heston Blumenthal. Hermé, who recreated it, at his own initiative, for the afternoon tea menu at the elite Brenners Park-Hotel in Baden-Baden, stated that it's a cake that is difficult to make since everyone knows its taste.
Credits: Brenners Park-Hotel
Heston, on the other hand, known for his unusual recipes and adaptations and recreations of classic and historic recipes, completely reimagined it and then built it from the ground up. It stands so above all the rest that it deserves a notable mention.
Blumenthal’s Innovative Touch
Always known for thinking outside the box, Blumenthal's Black Forest Gateau is not merely a recreation of the cake; it creates the entire Black Forest experience on a plate.
Credits: Fat Duck
It boasts six layers, exuding decadence and sophistication, as would be expected when served at The Fat Duck (it's no longer part of the menu though) in Bray. Most of its components are to be prepared ahead of time, ensuring ease during the assembly process. As a finishing touch, to recreate the authentic Black Forest ambiance, kirschwasser should be sprayed in the air using an atomizer when serving.
For those willing to take on this goliath of a cake, click here for detailed recipe instructions.
Germany's Undying Affection
Although the Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte has often clashed with modern food trends, threading a fine line between outdated and timeless, it remained a staple at German coffee tables for over 100 years.
And as Volker Gmeiner, the head of Confiserie Gmeiner, who runs, among other things, the wonderfully old-fashioned Café König in Baden-Baden, puts it, "We Germans are not that keen to experiment. We would like to eat a cake that has always tasted exactly the same in a café that still looks the same as it did 30 years ago. And, of course, have an opinion about it. This is our view of enjoyment."
To learn more about German desserts, click here.
To learn more about German cuisine, click here.
