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WHERE TO EAT The best Spaghetti Bordelaise in the world (according to food experts)

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Recommended by Lonely Planet and 1 other food critic.
"There's old school, and then there's Mosca's. This Italian joint looks like it's about to collapse into the mud, but it soldiers on, serving garlicky spaghetti bordelaise that's heaven-sent. Dimly lit and romantic in a dilapidated way, Mosca's is an experience, although they'll have to roll you home after dinner."