"At Compère Lapin, Saint Lucian chef Nina Compton unravels the French/Southern/Haitian rubber band ball of Louisiana cooking and looks at its constituent parts in a new way. Her food contends beautifully and deliciously with her own heritage and that of her adopted city. A Caribbean seafood pepper pot is like a West Indian bouillabaisse, with shrimp and freshwater drum in a slow-burn broth."