"For a Saturday brunch revelation, try their biscuits and gravy, which arrives as an open-faced sandwich stacked with a velvety gravy, country sausage, a Milagro Farms sunny-side egg and Tabasco sauce."
"No matter how full you are, you must order the off-the-menu biscuits."
"Modern Southern cuisine is served inside the 84-year-old white bungalow, with twists on go-to dishes. Secret tip: order the off-the-menu biscuits before they run out."
"Crispy rice has a place of honor in cultures from Korean bibimbap to Persian tahdig. And it’s the unlikely hero of this dish, the grounding wire for an electric combination of red peas in a salty-smoky pot likker with a vinegared chop of tomato, onion, garlic and scape coddling a soft-boiled egg."
on Hoppin' John
"To say that these two James Beard winners are cooking on the line even for brunch is to acknowledge the dedication that got them here. And they got here with dishes as simple as cornbread, executed with precision way beyond simple."
on Cornbread
"From whose spiral-bound cookbook collection did those fried blue cornbread lozenges spring? Floated in country ham potlikker, topped with green strawberry relish, scattered with shrimp boil powder, that dish proves with each queer and lovely bite that, out here in Austin where the South gives way to the West, much can still be gained when chefs respectfully and playfully reinvent the cooking of the women who came before them."
on Cornbread
"The buttery biscuits from award-winning chefs Grae Nonas and Michael Fojtasek are high on our list."
"Make sure to ask for an order of the pieces of pastry perfection, golden like the early morning sun on the outside and fluffy and airy like cumulus clouds on the inside. The best biscuits I’ve tasted."
"Biscuits are savory, flaky and remarkably moist even without the sea salt-honey butter, and they live up to the hype."
"Their Hoppin’ John is the most exciting version I’ve had. Olamaie’s version plays with zipper peas and pole beans soaking in a marinated soft egg. It’s savory and fantastic."
on Hoppin' John