WHERE TO EAT The best Mattar paneer in the world (according to food experts)

"The Kesar da Dhaba serves this tasty dish in Amritsar."

"The matar paneer and the dal makhani are earthy and simple; they have none of the royal feel and look, instead they look plain and homely. Their flavours are simple, subdued and kind to a tired stomach – exactly the kind of meal that gives me the light and fresh feeling I absolutely adore."