Formaggella
(Chiasörin, Crenga, Patardela, Maioca, Mota o motign, Formagela)
Formaggella is a semi-hard, medium-sized cheese produced from goat's milk, cow's milk, or a mixture of both, with a texture that can range from fresh soft to semi-hard, depending on the production method and aging process. The name derives from formaggio (lit. cheese), with the diminutive "-ella" suggesting a traditionally lower status compared to long-aged alpine cheeses.
A Swiss-Italian expression about strabismus (cross-eyed people) references "an eye that looks at the board of formaggella," referring to the wooden boards in kitchens where the cheese was stored to dry and kept safe from mice. Formaggella has a cylindrical shape, with a diameter of 10-20 cm, a height of 3-5 cm, and a weight of 400g to 2kg.
The paste varies in color from white (if made with more goat’s milk) to straw yellow (if made with more cow’s milk), while the rind is thin, soft, and gray, sometimes covered with molds called mucor, similar to those found on Tomme de Savoie. Read more
Its ingredients include goat’s or cow’s milk, direct thermophilic ferment, rennet, sometimes mold, and salt. Historically, formaggella has been produced since at least the 13th century, in the pre- and post-alpine grazing periods (spring and winter).
Originally intended for household consumption, it was not as highly regarded as long-matured alpine cheeses. Production begins with thermizing the milk at 65°C for 15 minutes to improve health safety while preserving flavor. The milk is then cooled to 35°C, and thermophilic ferments and sometimes molds are added.
After coagulating for 30-40 minutes with rennet, the curd is cut first with a curd cutter (lyre/harp) into thin slices, then further reduced with a spannarola until hazelnut-sized pieces are obtained. Some whey may be removed and replaced with water to reduce acidity, though this practice is rare due to contamination risks.
The mixture is heated again to 38°C before being placed in perforated baskets or molds. The cheese is turned multiple times within 24 hours, then brined for 4-6 hours or dry-salted. Aging occurs in cellars at 12-14°C with 70-90% humidity for at least three weeks.
Traditionally a domestic product, formaggella was consumed as a side dish, in recipes, or even for breakfast. Today, it is widely available in markets, shops, and restaurants in the Ticino region and is highly sought after in its various fat-content variations (full-fat, semi-fat, lean).
Depending on the region, formaggella is known by different names: chiasörin in Leventina, crenga in Val di Blenio, maioca in Biasca, mota or motign in Valmaggia, and fromagela in Verzasca.
Some varieties develop a gray moldy rind with fine hairs, known as "cat hair" or "pei da ratt," due to mucor molds. These characteristics highlight formaggella’s deep roots in Swiss alpine dairy traditions. Today, it remains a cherished cheese due to its delicate flavor, artisanal craftsmanship, and versatility in various culinary applications.
